Sep 29, 2011

Modni atelje Koko / Fashion studio Koko


Ukoliko volite da šijete ili crtate, ako maštate o tome da se bavite modom i da dizajnirate garderobu, preporučujem vam da upišete kurs Modni atelje Koko, koji vodi moja dobra prijateljica, Milena Kovačević. Milena je modna kreatorka, koja je poslednjih 30 godina radila za brojne svetske modne kuće, što je čini pravom riznicom informacija i inspiracije. 
Milenu sam upoznala u maju ove godine, kada sam i sama upisala kurs. Kurs je osmišljen kao kratka škola o modi, modnoj industriji, o tome šta je brend, kako izgleda proces dizajniranja, definisanja trendova i usklađivanje sopstvenih kreacija sa aktuelnim trendom. Kada sam došla na prvi čas, imala sam već formirano mišljenje o modi i estetici, kao i mnogo predrasuda o tome šta je trend. Nisam bila svesna koliko sam malo znala o tome :-). 
Tokom kursa, bili smo upućeni na brojne modne dizajnere, njihove aktuelne i minule modne kolekcije, i učili šta ih zapravo čini svetskim liderima. Kurs je podrazumevao i nekoliko vežbi, koje su imale za cilj da primenimo naučeno, kao i da eksperimentišemo sa formom, oblikom i teksturom. Moj prvi korak bio je manje - više predvidiv. Držala sam se svedene forme, blago vojničkog stila i klasične elegancije. Međutim, kada sam pustila mašti na volju, počela sam da smišljam kreacije koje su me prilično iznenadile. Slike ispod su moje skice, koje su bile pokušaj da objedinim kriterijume zadatog trenda, ličnu estetiku, kao i zadatak da kreiram nešto što bi bilo autentično. Da li sam postigla cilj, procenite sami. Moram da napomenem, moji favoriti su tri kreacije sa prve slike (među kojima posebno ističem pantalone sa reverima i duplim kopčanjem). Ovu kolekciju sam nazvala Upside down.

If you like to sew or to draw, if you fantasize of working in fashion industry and designing clothes, I recommend you to enroll the course called Fashion studio Koko, held by a very good friend of mine, Milena Kovachevich (that is - if you're in Belgrade, Serbia). Milena is a fashion designer, who has been working for numerous fashion brands in the last 30 years, which makes her a genuine source of information and inpsiration.
I met Milena in May this year, when I enrolled her course. The course was organized as a brief school about fashion, fashion industry, we learned how to identify a brand, how the designing process looks like, how to define and determine what a trend is and how to adjust your creations to the current trend. When I came to the first class I already had my opinion about fashion and aesthetics, and I had my prejudices regarding trends. I wasn't aware at the time of how little I knew about the topic :-).
During the course, we reviewed many fashion designers, analyzed their current and past collections and learned about what made them the leaders in the business. The course included several exercises whose goal was to demonstrate the learnt, as well as to experiment with the form, shape and texture. My first step was, more or less, predictive. I stuck to the simple shape, slightly military look and classic elegance. However, when I let my imagination take it's own direction, I started designing creations that really surprised me. Pictures bellow are my sketches, that were my attempt to integrate the criteria of the trend with my personal aesthetics, as well as to fulfill the given task to design something authentic. I leave you to make a judgement on whether I have accomplished the task or not. I have to add, my personal favorites are the three designs form the first picture (especially the pants with a "collar" and a double breast closure). I named this collection Upside down.



Sledeći korak je bio malo zahtevniji. Trebalo je da osmislimo kompletnu kolekciju, koja treba jasno da identifikuje brend koji svako od polaznika definiše za sebe. Moja ideja bila je da se jedan specifičan detalj ponavlja na svim odevnim predmetima, a inspiracija je potekla od indijanaca i afričkih plemena. Prvi korak bio je pravljenje tzv. mood board-a, odnosno postera, kolaža koji bi trebao da dočara raspoloženje koje modna kolekcija nosi. Evo kako je to izgledalo u mojoj interpretaciji (ne pamtim kada sam toliko koristila Photoshop!). Ova kolekcija se zove Urban Indian.

The next step was a bit more demanding. We had to design a complete collection that needed to identify a brand each student defined by him/herself. My idea was to make a specific detail that would appear on all garments, and I was inspired by American Indians and African tribes. The first step was making a mood board - a collage that had to depict the atmosphere and the mood of the fashion collection. Here's how my collage looked (I can't remember the last time I used Photoshop as much as then!). I named this collection Urban Indian.


Zatim sam napravila detalj koji će obeležiti celu kolekciju - "peruška" koju sam napravila od bezbroj pertli. Pertle su zapravo trake tanane viskoze, koje sam upredala i endlala mašinom. Neću vam opisati ceo postupak, ali znajte da mi je trebalo 2m tkanine, i nekoliko dana šivenja, upredanja i čvorovanja da bih dobila ovo! 

After that I made a detail that was a signature of the collection - a "plume" that was made of countless laces. The laces were actually strips of a very thin viscose, that I twisted and spun and zick-zacked on my machine. I'm not going to describe you the whole procedure, but you might find it interested that I used 2m of fabric, and spent several days sewing, spinning and knotting to make this!

 

I, konačno, evo par skica koje ilustruju kako bih perušku koristila u svojoj kolekciji (kliknite na sliku da je uvećate).

Finally, here are few sketches that illustrate how the "plume" would be used in my collection (click on the image to enlarge it).

 

 

Moja grupa sa kojom sam išla na kurs je bila mala, pa nismo uspeli da organizujemo izložbu na kraju kursa, ali je prethodna grupa bila veća i organizovanija, pa su devojke uspele da organizuju i izložbu, koju možete pogledati ovde.
Ukoliko i vi želite da pohađate ovaj kurs, u toku je upis. Kurs traje 6 nedelja (12 puta po 3 sata). Sve informacije možete dobiti od Maje, organizatora nastave, na sledećem broju telefona: 060/055-65-05.

My group was rather small, so we didn't manage to organize an exhibition at the end of the course, bu the previous group was well organized and big enough to pull out the exhibition, which you can see over here.
If you're interested in attending this course, you can apply. The course lasts 6 weeks (or 36 hours = 12 x 3h). You can get all the information from the teaching promoter Maja, on the following phone number: 060/055-65-05.